Category: Alpine Climbing

July 22-23, 2025 Linking up the peaks in the Anderson River Group has been on my radar for a few years. It traverses a very unique area over many stunning granite domes. On this traverse we linked up 8 peaks in a clockwise loop: Reh, Gemse, Serna, Gamuza, Steinbok, Ibex, Chamois, and Anderson River Mountain.…

January 19, 2024 Mount Harvey’s North Ramp is a North Shore mountaineering classic. 500m of sustained steep snow climbing overlooking the Howe Sound make it a unique outing. With the widespread melt freeze crust and green brick avalanche conditions on the south coast it was a far better time for pointy bits rather than skis,…

Sept 16, 2024 via Darn Gendarme 5.9 Sharp spires are undoubtably alluring to climbers, small airy summits with technical climbing being the only way to the top. Showcase spire had been on my radar for years, but I could find limited beta on both the climb and techniques in rigging a retrievable Tyrolean to descend…

September 1-3, 2024. For having such striking and tall glaciated summits, Altheney pass seems to see little attention from alpine climbers. I could only find information on two routes up Mount Ethelweard: John Clarke’s FA route along the south ridge, and Steven Song’s SW gulley route. The west ridge caught my eye as a striking…

July 26-28th 2024 For being one of the most popular alpine climbing areas in southwest BC the Tantalus has quite complex access. In modern day this has all been somewhat overridden by the fact that Black Tusk Helicopters has their airport just across the river from the Tantalus, making a heli bump relatively affordable. Not…

July 15, 2024 via North Ridge 5.2 I have been wanting to check out the Anderson River Valley for years after seeing the striking photo of Steinbock’s NE Buttress. Starting from the east side of the valley would give me a great view of this face as well as Springbock Arete up Les Cornes. The…

June 7-8th, 2024 Guardian Peak, Disillusion Peak, Illusions North and South Peak. I have been curious about the Illusions for years now, they are beautiful granite summits but get far less love than their southerly neighbours Nesakwatch Spires and Mount Rexford. We had initially intended to do a full link up for the “Grand Ensawkwatch…

March 31, 2024 There is something almost sinister about the volcanic towers on the Squamish-Cheakamus Divide. They are strikingly aesthetic, but in a way that would not look out of place in Mordor. Mt. Fee is a staple of the skyline past Squamish, a sharp black spike always standing proud above the surrounding snowfields. Despite…

July 27-Aug 2, 2023 Spurred on by the promise of beautiful alpine granite, Nicole and I had been scheming a climbing trip into Cathedral Lakes Park for most of the year. The park offers a wonderful combination of fairly high peaks, amazing granite, and mild weather. All this without any pesky glaciers to hinder access…